<small>© 2026 Susan Pruden. All rights reserved. Each CENTURY 21 office is independently owned and operated. Listings provided by Bright MLS from various brokers who participate in IDX (Internet Data Exchange).
<small>© 2026 Susan Pruden. All rights reserved. Each CENTURY 21 office is independently owned and operated. Listings provided by Bright MLS from various brokers who participate in IDX (Internet Data Exchange).

Homeowner's Insurance: What Your Insurer Needs to Know

by Susan Pruden
May 24, 2026
TL;DR

Your insurer needs to know when things change at your home. Renovations, a home office, a rental unit, a trampoline, a new dog -- all of these affect your coverage. Not telling your insurer doesn't protect you. It gives them a reason to deny your claim.

Review your policy once a year. The cost to rebuild a home has gone up a lot in recent years. If your coverage hasn't kept up, you could be underinsured -- and you won't find out until something goes wrong.

Some older Cheverly home conditions affect whether you can get insurance at all. Ungrounded outlets, Federal Pacific panels, fuse boxes, old oil tanks, and aging roofs are all things insurers ask about. Some will charge more, cut back coverage, or refuse to insure based on them.


Not sure what a term means?

Binder, ACV, HO-8, vacancy clause, subrogation -- insurance has its own language. The glossary explains it in plain English.

Insurance Glossary →

Click any section below to expand/collapse it.

What your insurer needs to know about your home

When you bought your home, your insurer asked you a set of questions. Your policy was priced based on your answers. If your home has changed since then -- and most Cheverly homes have -- your policy may no longer match what you actually own. That gap can cost you. In some cases it's the difference between a paid claim and a denied one.



Renovations and Improvements



Adding a bathroom, finishing a basement, updating a kitchen, building a deck -- any big improvement raises the cost to rebuild your home. If your policy limit doesn't reflect that, you're insuring a lesser home than you own. That gap comes out of your pocket after a loss.

Any major renovation should prompt a call to your insurer to update your coverage. This is especially true for additions that add square footage -- those are easy to verify and hard to explain away if your coverage falls short.

  • Finished basement with a bedroom and bathroom -- big value increase, call your insurer
  • Kitchen or bath remodel -- better finishes mean higher rebuild cost
  • Addition or sunroom -- added square footage must be reflected in your coverage
  • New deck or porch -- covered under "other structures," but large decks may exceed that limit
Unpermitted work and insurance

If a claim involves work that was done without permits, the insurer may deny or reduce your payout. The work wasn't up to code, so they may not have to cover it. Skipping permits isn't just a problem at resale -- it can hurt you at claim time too.



Home-Based Business or Remote Work



A standard homeowner's policy gives very little -- or no -- coverage for business property or business liability at your home. If you have expensive work equipment, inventory, or clients who visit, your standard policy probably doesn't cover it. This became a much bigger issue as remote work became common.

  • Business equipment (computers, cameras, tools) -- standard policies cap business property at $2,500 or less
  • Client visits -- if a client gets hurt at your home during a work visit, your homeowner's liability may not cover it
  • Inventory stored at home -- usually not covered under a standard policy
  • Home daycare or any licensed business -- requires a separate add-on or policy
What to do

Ask your insurer about a home business add-on. These usually don't cost much and close a real gap in your coverage.



Liability Triggers: Pools, Trampolines, and Dogs



Some things on your property put you at higher risk for a lawsuit. You need to tell your insurer about them. If you don't and someone gets hurt, you may not have coverage.

  • Swimming pools -- most insurers require you to report a pool; many require a fence, self-closing gate, and pool alarm to keep your coverage
  • Trampolines -- considered high risk by most insurers; some won't cover trampoline injuries at all, others will with a safety net requirement
  • Dogs -- certain breeds are not covered by many insurers; a dog bite claim can be very costly; tell your insurer about any new dog
  • Tree houses, zip lines, playground equipment -- worth a call to your insurer before you install them


When Life Happens and You Become a Landlord



Not every landlord plans to be one. You inherit a property. You relocate for work and can't sell. You take in a long-term tenant to help cover the mortgage. You rent out a basement apartment or an in-law suite. However it happens, the moment you have a paying tenant -- or even an Airbnb guest -- your homeowner's policy almost certainly no longer covers you.

This is one of the most common coverage gaps I see. The homeowner assumes their existing policy still applies. It doesn't. Insurers consider rental activity a different risk entirely, and standard homeowner's policies are not written for it.

What changes when you rent
  • Your homeowner's policy stops covering the dwelling -- most policies exclude damage that occurs while the home is rented; some will cancel your policy outright if they find out
  • Your liability exposure is different -- if a tenant or their guest is hurt and claims the home was unsafe, you're exposed in ways a standard homeowner's policy wasn't designed to cover
  • Your tenant's belongings are not your problem -- but their injuries may be; make sure your new policy covers landlord liability, not just the structure
  • Your tenant's renters insurance protects them, not you -- requiring renters insurance is smart, but it doesn't replace your own landlord coverage
Short-term vs. long-term rental -- different solutions
  • Long-term tenant (lease of 30+ days) -- you need a landlord policy, also called a dwelling fire policy (DP-3); this replaces your homeowner's policy for that property and covers the structure, landlord liability, and lost rental income if the home becomes uninhabitable
  • Short-term rental (Airbnb, VRBO) -- you need a short-term rental endorsement or a separate short-term rental policy; the coverage these platforms provide is limited and is not a substitute; a guest who gets hurt during a stay could leave you fully exposed
  • Renting a room while you still live there -- some insurers will add a home-sharing endorsement to your existing policy; others require a separate policy; call and ask before your first guest checks in
Cheverly context

Cheverly has a lot of basement apartments, in-law suites, and carriage houses. It's easy to slip into landlord status -- a family member moves in and starts paying rent, or a finished basement becomes a rental -- without realizing your coverage just changed. If anyone is paying you to live in any part of your property, call your insurer.

Don't assume -- call

Some homeowners think that as long as they still live in the home, the policy still covers everything. That's not always true. Even renting a single room can void coverage for that part of the home -- or trigger a policy cancellation. The only way to know is to call your insurer and tell them exactly what the arrangement is.

What to do

Before any tenant moves in -- or any guest books a stay -- call your insurer and describe the situation. For a long-term tenant, ask about switching to a landlord policy (DP-3). For short-term rentals, ask about a home-sharing endorsement. Either way, get the answer in writing so there's no dispute if a claim comes up later.



Older Home Conditions That Affect Insurability



Cheverly's older homes have several conditions that insurers ask about directly. In some cases, these conditions lead to higher premiums, reduced coverage, or outright refusal. It's important to know where your home stands -- both for keeping coverage and for planning any updates.

  • Ungrounded outlets with three-prong covers -- this is very common in Cheverly. The original two-prong outlets were updated to look like modern three-prong outlets, but the grounding wire was never added. The cover looks fine; the wiring behind it isn't. Some insurers ask specifically about grounded wiring, and an ungrounded system can affect your coverage or your premium. An electrician can test and confirm what you actually have.
  • Federal Pacific or Zinsco electrical panels -- flagged by most insurers; some will not insure or renew your policy until the panel is replaced
  • Fuse boxes -- a small number of Cheverly homes still have the original fuse box rather than a modern breaker panel. Most insurers will refuse to write or renew a policy on a home with a fuse box. If you have one, replacing it is not optional -- it's a condition of getting coverage.
  • Roofs over 20 years old -- many insurers will only pay the worn-down value of an old roof, not the full cost of a new one; some won't renew a policy with an old roof
  • Oil tanks (abandoned or active) -- an undisclosed buried tank is a serious problem; active oil heat may mean a higher premium
  • Galvanized steel plumbing -- some insurers charge more or limit water damage coverage when homes have known galvanized supply lines
What to do

If your home has any of these, tell your insurer and find out exactly what your policy covers -- and what it doesn't. "I didn't know" won't save you after a denied claim. Fixing the problem (replacing the wiring, upgrading the panel, replacing the roof) often brings your premium down enough to offset some of the cost.

What your policy probably doesn't cover

Standard homeowner's policies have common gaps that catch people off guard at claim time. Knowing what isn't covered matters just as much as knowing what is -- and several of these gaps are especially relevant to Cheverly's housing stock and location.



Standard Exclusions Every Homeowner Should Know


Usually not covered by a standard policy
  • Flood damage -- you need a separate flood policy; water that comes up from the ground during a storm is not covered by a standard homeowner's policy
  • Sewer backup -- a clogged or backed-up drain is not covered; a sewer backup add-on is cheap and worth having
  • Earthquake -- requires a separate policy or add-on
  • Normal wear and tear -- a roof that just got old and started leaking is not a covered loss; a roof damaged in a storm is
  • Gradual damage -- a slow leak that caused mold over several months is usually not covered; a pipe that suddenly bursts is
  • Business activity -- as covered above
  • Rental activity -- as covered above
  • Wood-destroying insects (WDI) -- termites, carpenter ants, carpenter bees, and powderpost beetles are considered a maintenance issue, not a sudden loss. Damage they cause is not covered. Prevention and treatment are your responsibility.
Cheverly context

Cheverly's brick exteriors look solid -- but most homes have wood sill plates, floor joists, and interior framing that WDI target. A termite inspection at purchase is standard, but ongoing prevention is on the homeowner. No insurance policy will cover the repair.

Sewer backup add-on

Cheverly has a lot of aging cast iron drain pipes and old clay sewer lines. Tree roots and pipe deterioration make backup a real risk here. A sewer backup add-on typically costs $50--$150 a year and covers cleanup and repairs from a backed-up drain or sewer -- one of the most common and unpleasant homeowner claims.



Replacement Cost vs. Market Value -- Know the Difference



This is one of the most common mix-ups in homeowner's insurance -- and one of the most costly. Your insurance should be based on replacement cost, not market value. These are not the same number.

Market value is what a buyer would pay for your home, including the land. It goes up and down with the housing market.

Replacement cost is what it would cost to rebuild your home from the ground up -- labor, materials, permits -- at today's prices, not including the land. In most cases this is less than market value. But after years of rising construction costs, it can be surprisingly high.

  • Ask your insurer whether your policy pays replacement cost or actual cash value -- actual cash value (ACV) pays the worn-down value, which can be much less
  • Ask specifically about roof coverage -- many policies pay ACV on older roofs, not full replacement cost
  • Consider extended replacement cost coverage -- it pays above your policy limit if rebuilding costs end up higher than your coverage
  • Your insurer can run a replacement cost estimate; ask for this at every renewal


Renovations and Additions: What to Know Before Work Starts



A renovation changes your home. It also changes your insurance situation -- often in ways homeowners don't find out about until something goes wrong mid-project. The time to sort this out is before the first contractor shows up, not after.

Your coverage during construction
  • Your homeowner's policy may not cover the home while work is underway -- active construction is a different risk than normal occupancy; some insurers limit or exclude coverage during major renovations; call and ask before work starts
  • If you move out during the renovation, the vacancy clause may kick in -- an empty home under construction is one of the highest-risk situations an insurer sees; a standard homeowner's policy is almost certainly not enough
  • Builder's risk insurance -- a separate short-term policy that covers a home and materials during active construction; if you're doing a major addition or gut renovation, ask your insurer or agent whether you need one; some lenders require it as a condition of a construction loan
  • Materials stored on site -- lumber, fixtures, and appliances sitting in your driveway or garage before installation may not be covered under your standard policy; a builder's risk policy typically covers them
Contractor and subcontractor insurance
  • Require a certificate of insurance from every contractor before work starts -- this proves they carry general liability and workers' compensation; if a worker gets hurt on your property and the contractor has no workers' comp, you may be liable
  • The general contractor's policy may not cover subcontractors -- ask specifically whether subs are covered, or require certificates from each trade separately
  • Their insurance protects them -- not you -- a contractor's policy covers their liability; it does not protect your home or your belongings if something goes wrong; that's your policy's job
  • Get it in writing -- a verbal assurance that a contractor is insured means nothing; require the certificate before any work begins and keep a copy
Permits, coverage, and what gets discovered
  • Unpermitted work can void a claim -- if damage occurs in an area that was renovated without permits, your insurer may deny the claim; this is true even if the work looks fine and was done years ago
  • Update your dwelling coverage before the addition is complete -- your coverage limit should reflect the finished value of the home; don't wait until your next renewal to report a significant addition
  • Renovation loans and lender requirements -- if you're financing the work through a construction or renovation loan, your lender may require specific coverage; read the loan terms carefully and loop in your insurer early
Cheverly context

Older Cheverly homes regularly turn up surprises once walls come open -- ungrounded wiring behind outlets that were updated to look like three-prong but never properly grounded, an abandoned oil tank, galvanized plumbing, or asbestos-wrapped pipes. Any of these can affect your insurability mid-project. If your contractor discovers something like this, call your insurer before deciding how to handle it. What you do next -- and whether you permit it -- can affect your coverage going forward.

The mid-renovation claim nobody expects

A fire, a burst pipe, a theft of materials -- these happen during renovations too. If your standard policy has lapsed into a construction exclusion and you don't have a builder's risk policy in place, you may have no coverage at all. Don't assume your existing policy still applies just because you still own the home. Call and confirm before the first nail goes in.

What to do

Before any significant work starts: call your insurer and describe the project scope. Ask whether your current policy covers the home during construction, whether you need a builder's risk policy, and whether your dwelling coverage limit needs to be updated when the work is done. Get certificates of insurance from every contractor and sub. And permit the work -- it protects you at claim time and at resale.

When your home is vacant

Most homeowner's policies have a vacancy clause -- a rule that cuts or eliminates coverage if the home is empty for more than 30 to 60 days. This comes up more often than people expect in Cheverly: estate sales where the home sits empty for months, sellers who move before the home sells, inherited properties, and long trips away. In all of these situations, your standard policy may leave you with little or no coverage -- and you may not find out until you try to file a claim.



Vacant Home Insurance


Why empty homes are higher risk
  • Vandalism and break-ins are more likely -- and often not covered once a vacancy clause kicks in
  • A burst pipe or leak can go unnoticed for weeks, causing far more damage than it would in an occupied home
  • Fire spreads further when no one is there to catch it early
  • Your liability doesn't go away -- someone hurt on the property can still file a claim against you
  • Squatters and break-ins are more common, and the damage may not be covered
What "vacant" usually means to an insurer
  • Most policies define vacancy as 30--60 days in a row without someone living there
  • Having furniture in the home does not count as "occupied" under most policies
  • A home staged for sale but not lived in is usually considered vacant
  • Seasonal homes and second homes may have different rules -- check your policy
  • Snowbirds and part-year residents: if you spend four to six months somewhere else -- Florida, Arizona, a second home -- your Cheverly home may cross the vacancy threshold while you're gone. Some insurers treat a primary residence differently from a secondary one, but don't assume. Call your insurer and ask specifically what happens to your coverage during a long absence.
Estate sales and inherited properties

This is one of the most common coverage gaps I see in Cheverly. A homeowner passes away. The estate takes months to settle. The home sits empty the whole time -- often with the original policy still in place, but the vacancy clause quietly cutting off real coverage. The heirs don't find out until something happens. If you're handling an estate with an empty property, call the insurer right away and ask specifically about the vacancy clause and what's still covered.

A real example

My mother-in-law went into the hospital without warning. While she was there, a pipe broke in her 1945 home -- running at about 8 gallons per minute, likely for most of a full day before anyone knew. A neighbor stopped by to get the mail. When she opened the front door, water poured out onto the porch.

The damage was severe. Walls, floors, and ceilings throughout the house were soaked. The ceiling below the bathroom had collapsed into the kitchen. The basement had several feet of standing water. The entire house had to be emptied overnight so crews could dry it out, tear out the damaged walls and ceilings, replace them, and refinish the floors.

The insurance company came through and covered the loss. But that was lucky. If the policy had crossed into a vacancy exclusion -- or if no one had checked on the house for another day or two -- the outcome could have been very different. Someone living in a home catches a broken pipe in minutes. An empty home catches it when a neighbor happens to stop by.

What to do

If your home will be empty for more than 30 days, call your insurer before you hit that mark. Options include: adding a vacancy add-on to your current policy, getting a separate vacant home policy from a specialty insurer, or a builder's risk policy if the home is being renovated while empty. Costs vary but typically run $500--$2,000 a year depending on the home and coverage. That's not cheap -- but it's far less than an uninsured water damage or vandalism claim.

Practical tip: housesitting and remote monitoring

Beyond insurance, if you'll be gone for more than 30 days, consider having someone check on the home regularly. A neighbor or friend who stops by once a week can catch the kind of slow-building problems that turn into disasters when no one notices them for a month.

If the power is on, monitoring devices make remote check-ins practical. Wifi-connected leak detectors under sinks, near the water heater, and in the basement will alert you the moment they sense moisture. A smart thermostat shows you if the heat has dropped. Indoor cameras let you do a quick visual check from your phone. None of this replaces someone physically in the house -- but it fills a real gap between visits, and the devices are cheap enough to be an easy call for any long absence.

Putting it together: review your policy every year

Insurance policies don't adjust themselves for inflation. Construction costs, labor, and materials have gone up sharply in recent years. A policy that covered your home fully in 2018 may cover a lot less today. This is called being underinsured -- and most homeowners don't find out until they file a major claim.

The best time to review is at renewal -- usually once a year. It takes about 30 minutes and a call to your agent. The questions to ask are simple.

Annual Policy Review Checklist

Coverage questions

  • Is my coverage limit based on what it costs to rebuild today -- not what the home is worth or what I paid?
  • Do I have guaranteed or extended replacement cost coverage?
  • Has my personal property coverage kept up with what I actually own?
  • Are high-value items (jewelry, art, instruments, collectibles) covered separately?
  • Is my liability limit high enough -- at least $300,000, ideally $500,000 or more?
  • Do I have an umbrella policy? (Worth considering if you have real assets)

Home changes to report

  • Any renovation, addition, or major improvement this year
  • New pool, hot tub, deck, or outbuilding
  • New dog (especially larger breeds)
  • Started or expanded a home business
  • Any short-term rental activity
  • Major system replaced (roof, HVAC, electrical panel) -- may lower your premium
  • New security system -- often qualifies for a discount
Filing a claim -- and when not to

Not every loss is worth filing a claim over. Insurers keep track of claims history, and filing too many small claims can raise your premium or get your policy canceled at renewal. The basic rule: if the loss is close to your deductible, pay out of pocket. If it's well above your deductible, file.



If You Need to File a Claim


  • Take photos and video of the damage before you clean up or make repairs
  • Make temporary repairs to stop further damage -- keep your receipts, insurers usually reimburse these
  • Don't hire anyone for permanent repairs until the adjuster has seen the damage
  • Call your insurer promptly -- most policies require you to report a loss quickly
  • If a contractor knocks on your door after a storm, be careful -- storm chasers often do poor work and create problems with your claim
  • Get your own repair estimates in addition to what the adjuster gives you
  • Keep a home inventory -- photos of each room and your major items saved to cloud storage make any claim much easier
Storm chasers

After a big storm in Cheverly, contractors who specialize in storm damage often go door to door. Some are legitimate. Many are not. Never sign an Assignment of Benefits form that hands your claim rights over to a contractor -- once you sign, you lose control over the repairs and the payout. Always check a contractor's license and insurance before you sign anything.


A note from Susan Pruden

Insurance comes up in almost every transaction I'm part of -- a buyer's lender requiring an upgraded panel, a seller finding out their old roof is only covered at worn-down value, an undisclosed oil tank causing coverage problems. The time to understand your policy is before something happens, not after.

I'm not an insurance agent and can't give advice on specific policies -- but I can tell you which conditions in Cheverly homes tend to create problems, and that's worth knowing before you list or renovate.

Susan@SusanPruden.com  ·  (301) 980-9409

A lifetime Maryland resident, Susan Pruden has the ideal foundation for selling and buying homes. After 8 years working in just about every facet of the mortgage industry, and several years with her own company specializing in marketing for real estate agents, Susan got her real estate license in 1994. Susan has earned several industry awards. The CENTURY 21 Quality Service Pinnacle Award is based on reviews from Susan's clients and is earned by a very small percentage of agents. She has earned that coveted recognition since 2012

Two others were awarded by the Prince George's Association of REALTORS®. The Distinguished Sales Associate of the Year Award is based on a mixture of community involvement, association involvement and real estate education and designations. The other, the Distinguished Service Award, is for "exceptional meritorious service."

Susan is involved in her local community. She was named Cheverly Volunteer of the Year in 2018, even having June 25th designated "Susan Pruden Day" in the Town of Cheverly. She is also a Commissioner on the Prince George's County Historic Preservation Commission and President of the Cheverly American Legion Auxiliary.

Susan Pruden has lived in Cheverly lived with her husband, Joseph, for almost 30 years.

Susan Pruden, REALTORĀ®
CENTURY 21 New Millennium
1000 Pennsylvania Ave SE
Washington, DC 20003
Direct:
<small>© 2026 Susan Pruden. All rights reserved. Each CENTURY 21 office is independently owned and operated. Listings provided by Bright MLS from various brokers who participate in IDX (Internet Data Exchange).
© 2026 Susan Pruden. All rights reserved. Each CENTURY 21 office is independently owned and operated. Listings provided by Bright MLS from various brokers who participate in IDX (Internet Data Exchange).
 
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